When camp ended, our staff team stayed behind for another day to clean up the boarding school (which we had rented for the session) and to finalize are cabin and activity area reports. It was a very strange day and reminded me a little of the last day of summer camp at Cooch. When all of the campers leave, the site that once had so much energy and magic, is demoted to simply a place or a piece of land. It was a lonely and quiet day at Sizanani as we closed up, got on our own bus and returned to the hospital in Soweto where it all began a few weeks ago.
We (myself and the three other Vocheli's) arranged to spend a few days in Soweto, and specifically one day in KlipTown. I think Soweto gets a bad wrap in the international community. We often read about how poor and unfortunate life there is, but that's not true. While the poverty is staggering in the area, beyond comprehension in comparison to home in fact, Soweto has a mixture of very wealthy and middle class as well. Not only that there are a number of areas with tremendous growth and development that it's hard to believe that about fifteen years ago it was a zone people were herded into and proper infrastructures denied. The truth (or at least my truth, which I witnessed in my short few days) is that Soweto is a township that should be...and is for that matter...very proud of themselves for how far they have come in terms of development in such a short time. We made our way around the area with great success inside local "taxi's" which was a treat in itself, and spoke to a number of people all whom claimed "you can get out of Soweto, but you will never get Soweto out of you". There is such a pride in this place and you can see it everywhere. People walk with their head up, and greet you as you pass. People stop and talk to each other, and take time to listen.
Soweto has it's issues, however personality is not one of them. Throughout my two days I felt safe, appreciated and welcome in this township of Black South African's.
KLIPTOWN
Removing Camp from the equation, my visit to KlipTown was the most remarkable thing I did during my time in South Africa. We went to KlipTown the day we arrived in Soweto. Two days earlier I had told "Teddy", one of the other Vocheli's who is a resident of KlipTown, that I would take her up on her invitation to visit the area and go for a tour with her.
KlipTown is more consistent with an area you might see on a World Vision Telethon. A massive community, it was created and has developed on a flood plain just above a river, which means that after heavy rains, many of the homes here are flooded and often washed away. EColi is everywhere, and Cholera claims the life of many residents each year. The only electricity in KlipTown is derived from generators (and a privilege afforded to very few) and access to water is limited to public taps ever few blocks. There is no drainage and the only toilet facilities are "port o potties" which are shared at a ratio of 1:100 and emptied only once a week. Just across the train tracks, sits a Holiday Inn, Shopping and the Baragwaneth Hospital. Although the services are close, the government will not allow KlipTown access in hopes of forcing the estimated 45,000 residents outside Soweto into government housing away from the city.
When we arrived in the early afternoon, we were greeted by Teddy who was waiting outside her home for us. After a quick hello, my three fellow travellers and I were swept away by her cousin for a tour of "SKY", an organization started by Teddy's grandmother that works to educate and house children in need within KlipTown. Our arrival was noticed by many (we were quite possibly the only three white people in the suburb that day), and it quickly became clear that our presence was anticipated...Teddy sold us out. The next couple hours consisted of introductions discussions about Canada, and a remarkable native dance performance, put on in our honour by the youth in the area. The energy was high, their movements were precise and I definitely thought their talent could grace the best of stages. It was incredible!
Later Teddy brought us on a tour of the neighbourhoods, and showed us what life was like. Never seeking pity, but always hopeful for better, I learned about many of the road blocks the people here are subjected to. With such challenges at every corner, I have been reminded once again of the power of the human spirit. That human beings can endure so much while striving for change and improvement, doing so while maintaining love and hope, it is no wonder to me that we as creatures have taken over the earth. Here is South Africa, everywhere you look, you can find evidence that humans are the most remarkable of species on this planet.